Pick the route before the products
Buy a purpose-built building when you value speed and a coordinated shell. Check exactly what the listed package excludes: the base, assembly, treatment, power and internal fit-out often sit outside the attractive headline.
Convert an existing shed or summerhouse when the structure is genuinely sound. Inspect the roof, floor, base, ventilation and signs of damp before buying bar furniture. Decorative panelling does not cure a wet wall.
Build the bar or shell yourself when you want control and already have the skills and tools. Cost fixings, finishes, waste and delivery as well as the visible timber.
The costs people forget
- Ground preparation and a suitable level base.
- A safe permanent electrical design, installation and certification where required.
- Weatherproofing, ventilation and periodic timber treatment.
- Task lighting, path lighting and enough sockets in the right places.
- Storage that keeps glassware and equipment clean when the bar is closed.
- Delivery access and removal of packaging or old materials.
Turn the total into a decision
The calculator is a comparison sheet, not a quote. Run it once for the dream version, then duplicate the figures on paper for a simpler alternative. If the structure dominates the total, compare converting and buying. If fit-out has crept up, strip the plan back to the counter, power and storage you need on day one.
A contingency is sensible, but we do not insert a made-up percentage for you. Base it on the uncertainty in your own project: an uninspected shed deserves more caution than a priced kit on a prepared base.
Where budgets usually go wrong
The structure is rarely the line that surprises people. The surprises come from the things around it:
- Access. A narrow side passage can mean a smaller building, hand-carrying materials or paying for extra labour.
- Ground conditions. Slopes, roots and soft ground change the base. See base options.
- Distance from the house. A longer cable run and trench for power, and a longer walk for every glass. See power.
- Winter use. Insulation and heating are a separate layer of cost from a summer-only bar. See insulation.
- Running costs. A fridge, heater and lights all use electricity. Check each appliance's rated consumption and your own tariff.
Get comparable quotes
Ask each supplier or trade for a written quote that states what is included and what is not. For a building, compare the same specification: size, cladding, floor, roof and treatment. See shed cladding explained. For electrics, give each electrician the same written brief so the quotes are comparable.
Phase the project
Spreading the work over seasons is often easier than finding one large sum. A sensible order is base and shell, then power, then fit-out, then decor. Each phase should leave the bar usable and weatherproof.
The next useful step is to collect one real figure for every empty row. A total made from six imperfect quotes beats a precise-looking number borrowed from somebody else's garden.
Quick answers
Why don’t you give an average garden bar price?
Because projects vary too much for an average to be useful, and we do not publish prices we cannot source and keep current. Your own quotes are a better guide.
What is usually the biggest cost?
For bought buildings it is often the structure, but the base, electrics and fit-out can add up to as much again. Put every layer into the planner.
Should I include a contingency?
Yes, sized to your uncertainty. An existing shed with unknown condition deserves a larger allowance than a priced kit on a prepared base.